Go make soap! ....

Back in March 2011 I made a few batches of cold pressed soap and put a few of my favourite recipes on the blog, after the soap had set I sliced it into rectangles and stored it away in my airing cupboard for it to cure, its been a few months now and its colour is paler and the soap has gone hard ready to use. This soap has loads of tiny bubbles when its used and the scent is very mild. I've decided that some will be given away as small gifts this Christmas so I set about packaging it with some lovely printed papers, this is how I did it....



A selection of patterned papers to wrap around the soap.




The papers were cut into rectangles approx 25cm x 10cm and folded around each soap and secured with paper string.





Here is the cured soap I made back in March 2011. The recipe for calendula & orange soap is here, and the recipe for Goats milk a & Almond butter is here.



After the soap is wrapped I attatched a label with the soap name and ingredients onto the string

The labels were designed in a word document and printed onto regular white card.



Finished soap!
 

Goats milk & Almond butter soap



I've been making this type of soap for a few years now, I make a large batch that generally lasts for about a year in my house plus a little extra to give away as gifts, originally I thought I would make some to see how it turned out, but its popularity in my household has meant that no-one wants to use shop bought soap anymore. As my cured stash of handmade soaps is down to the last I thought I'd better make some more and share with you the best recipe I've found so far.


Goats milk & Almond Butter Soap

1. 615g         Coconut Oil
2. 670g      Sunflower Oil 
3.      670g     Olive Oil  (not virgin) 
4. 295g         Caustic soda
5. 930ml         Mineral Water
6. 100g    Dried goats milk

150g     Almond Butter
50ml  Almond Oil
10g Cedar Oil
20g Lavender oil
20g Petitgrain oil
20g sweet orange oil



                             







You will need:

weighing scales

large pan to heat oils

large stainless steel spoon (for lye)

large spoon or spatula to mix oil

bucket to mix the mineral water & caustic soda (lye)

plastic container (greased) for soap mould

old blankets or covers to wrap soap and insulate
Two thermometers







After weighing all ingredients melt coconut oil with sunflower oil and olive oil in a pan then grease the mould.

Use the bucket and add caustic soda to mineral water (not the other way) stiring continuously until dissolved.The temperature of the caustic soda & water (lye) will heat up and the oil will be cooling so you need to test the temperatures and aim to get both mixtures to around 35-37c. (you may need to help this along with cooling the lye in a larger bowl or sink with cold water or ice or in the case of the oil you may need to heat a little if it cools too quickly.) The pooring temperature should be around 36c before combining both mixtures. If temperature varies too much problems may occur later when the soap tries to set. Prepare the goats milk and other supplements while you wait for the temperatures to rise & fall.

Create a paste with the almond oil, goats milk, almond butter & essential oils, ready to add to the soap mixture later on. Set aside.





Stir mixture continously (this takes ages! sometimes upto 3 hours until the mixture traces, so I use a hand blender or whisk this takes the stiring down to half the time, but I wouldnt recommend this as it can spit and splatter, and the mixture is caustic so shouldnt go on your skin.





As you can see the mixture changes in colour and begins to thicken, when you see the mixture start to trace you can add the goats milk paste made earlier and give a good stir.





Poor the mixture carefully into your mould/moulds.

After mixture has been poored you need to wrap up with old blankets and keep in a warm place where it can be left to set. I leave mine on top of the boiler but an airing cupboard or any warm spot will be fine so long as there isnt any draft. When the soap is set you can cut it into chunks and store for a few months so it can cure and go nice and hard. This recipe makes a really bubbly soap that doesnt make your skin feel dry and smells lovely, but be warned it will stop you buying shop soap.

This was de-moulded 24hrs after it had set and cut into slices.It is still caustic and oily at this point, but it will start to dry, harden, shrink and lighten over time making a really luxurious soap. (make sure your soap isn't stacked or touching any other soap so it cures and doesn't stick, turn it from time to time as well, and be patient)
Look, this recipe makes all this soap!!